July 15, 2024

Introduction

The Competition Handbook and Judges Guide is for Modelers by Modelers. Its purpose is to make us better modelers and take the guess work out of competition. If you build for competition this handbook will provide you the checklists and references you need to build contest ready models. You can use the Handbook to make sure you haven’t missed a thing as you create your latest work of art.

Most of us are modelers and have taken a turn at judging even if only at the local level. The Judges Guide will provide information to make you a better judge and maybe encourage you to volunteer to judge at your next IPMS National Convention. The National Contest Committee is always looking for new members. It takes a great many dedicated and experienced judges to properly judge the National Contest.

The Handbook

This handbook is designed for modelers everywhere, competitors and non-competitors alike. For competitors, it outlines the basic principles that guide IPMS model contests. For judges, it outlines the standards and objectives that make for fair, effective, and efficient competitions. For all modelers, it is a single best reference on how to look at models objectively: to know what to look for, to know what others are looking for, and to learn how to set personal standards of satisfaction and accomplishment.

IPMS/USA has been accused regularly, and wrongly, of overemphasizing contests and being defined by competition. That is not correct. IPMS is dedicated to promote the hobby of scale model building, a hobby of individual achievement and significant artistic content. Having built our models, we take great pleasure in displaying them to fellow modelers and to anyone who might appreciate our work. We have regular meetings; organized displays at schools, malls, and Hobby shops, and yes, we have contests - local, regional, and national contests. These contests bring us together as we seek fellow modelers, not just to see who’s the best, but for feedback and acknowledgment of our developing skills. Not everyone wants to compete, and competition should never be a prerequisite of IPMS membership, participation, or satisfaction. Many members build, but do not compete. They still attend and learn from every convention and contest.

For those who do want to compete, the IPMS wants to provide the best contest possible. IPMS encourages competition, because properly conducted contests are are one of the best ways to improve modeling skills. Competition gives you the opportunity to see many models and multiple techniques. It gives you the ability to critique your skills against your peers and learn through interaction and participation.

Volunteering to Judge is an excellent learning opportunity. Being a judge means looking at models in a new and objective fashion and is recognized to be the best way to become a better modeler. Nevertheless, whether you enter contests or not, and if you never judge, this handbook can help you recognize some basic, objective truths about models and modeling. It is a living document that we will maintain on the IPMS/USA web page, so let IPMS know what you think about it. We'll update it at annually, and your input is always welcome.

Every Model is an Individual Work of Art

When we look at a model at any level, we are guided by the proposition that every modeler's work is a creative work of art. Whether you model like Picasso, or DaVinci, it’s art and your interpretation of a real or imaginary subject. How each of us interprets a subject, and the techniques we use to bring our model to life, vary greatly. Much research and creativity go into what we do. Most newer model kits produced today are multi-media, containing as many different materials and finishes as you can imagine, and if built well, can produce a result in which the builder takes enormous pride. As a model approaches and/or crosses the finish line how do we as the builder, or another modeler, give it a fair evaluation? As the builder, it is hard to self-critique. If your model came out looking like you envisioned, then you should take great pride in what you have accomplished. If you intend to build the model for competition, you should look deeper, because the judge will. If you’re a judge you may like the model too. Then again, you may not. It might be too weathered for your taste, or have panels open with live ordnance! To fairly and objectively evaluate the model you both have to start at the same place – “The Basics”.

When we say "The Basics, we are talking fit and finish. Can you find a seam anywhere? Is there glue you can spot? Is there orange peel in the paint? Is there silvering on the decals? These are the ABCs of good model building. As the builder, you need “attention to detail” and should continually evaluate your model throughout the build. If you are building for fun, then go for it! No one builds the Mona Lisa every time. If you are building to win, practice makes perfect. If you play golf once a year, we’re talking to you!

The Handbook outlines the basics for each of the modeling classes offered at an IPMS contest. Every contest, local to national, will have models in most if not all the classes you will find at IPMS Nationals. Because they are basics principles, the techniques are similar and related across most of the classes. Each class also has unique characteristics to consider. A Sherman tank is not The Incredible Hulk. An Aircraft Carrier can carry an F-4 Phantom, but they don’t judge quite the same.

Modeling Basics

Entry Evaluation Criteria

Presentation

• A model entry should be presented free of dirt, dust, & debris.
• Model entry forms should be filled out complete and with all important build information.
  
  With the exception of the Diorama category, bases will not be evaluated as part of the model entry. However, bases with structures, vegetation, {trees, walls, shrubs, etc.} that are taller than the model or block the view of the model from all angles, or contain more than 2 figures, (those 2 figures must be crew members), will be moved to the vignette/diorama category, even if that was not your intent.
   
• Display cases with covers may be used while the contest room is open for general-public display but must be removed by the modeler for judging. Models in enclosed cases will not be judged, except in instances where the removal of the cover could cause damage, and in the judgement of the Chief Head Judge the case will not impede effective judging. An arrangement must be made prior to judging and noted in writing on the entry form by the Chief Head Judge.

Basic Construction

• No glue strands or fingerprints
• Flash, visible trademarks, mold seams, sink marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
• Seams filled. Details lost by filling/sanding will be re-scribed/replaced.
• Cylindrical items will remain round. They must not be sanded to an oval shape.
• Any openings are blanked off or have the field of vision obstructed to prevent a “see-through” effect or if not, show the appropriate detail inside.
• All components are appropriately aligned.
• The underside of the model, if visible, should have the same attention to these criteria as the rest of the model.
• Any clear part present should be free of glue marks. There should be no scratches, or cracks unless they are part of the weathering of the model.

Detailing

• All small parts should be thinned as close to scale as possible.
• Small details sanded off during construction should be replaced with scratch-built or aftermarket material.
• Aftermarket parts, kit bashed, scratch-built additions, and changes should blend in with the rest of the model.
• Gun barrels, exhausts, vents, wheel openings, etc. should be drilled out whenever possible.
• Sailing ship & aircraft rigging, antennas, and other types of wire and lines should be correct for the era being modeled. It should be appropriately taut and attached properly (no frayed or flyaway ends at tie-off points).
• Photo-etched detail parts:
  • Nubs and burrs where parts are removed from sprue must be eliminated.
  • Painted photo-etch that should be covered completely should show no metal color at nicks, cracks, cuts, or bends.
  • Parts should not be unintentionally damaged or bent.
  • Glue marks and buildups should not show. They should appear seamlessly blended.
  • Parts should not overlap.
  • Corner (box) seams created when parts are bent to shape should be filled.

Painting and Finishing

• No paint fingerprints.
• The model’s surface once painted should show no signs of the construction process such as glue, filing, or sanding marks.
• Paint should be even and smooth, exhibiting no brush marks, masking ridges, or "orange-peel" effect. Unintentional overspray of adjacent surfaces is minimized. If the actual subject’s finish irregularities this information should be noted on the model’s Entry Form.
• Dry brushing should not be obvious as dry brushing with for example, noticeable brush marks.
• Decals
  • Aligned properly. Unusual markings or markings placement must be documented.
  • No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.
• Weathering should be consistent and appropriate across the entry.
  • Paint clean and the wheel wells filthy
  • Heavily faded paint with bright markings

Class 0: Juniors

Category divisions are based on the following ages:

• Pre-Teen includes entrants through 12 years old.
• Teen includes entrants 13 through 17 years old

Any model, no matter what category it belongs to, should be built according to the Entry Evaluation Criteria listed below for each class. Junior class entrants should look at the individual category information if they needed details on the judging of their individual type of model. In short, things such as misalignment of parts, unfilled seams, glue blemishes, sloppy painting, poor decal application, etc. will be detrimental to any models entered that does not have these problems corrected.

Class I: Aircraft

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
2. Seams filled if not present on the actual aircraft.
3. Any detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.
4. Alignment
   1. Wings/tailplanes: same dihedral or anhedral on both sides.
   2. Plan view: wings and stabilizers aligned correctly with, and identically on both sides of, centerline.
   3. Multiple fins/rudders: fin-to-stabilizer angles correct; aligned with each other in front and side views where appropriate.
   4. Engine nacelles/cowlings: lined up correctly in front, side, and plan views.
   5. Landing gear: components properly aligned with airframe and with each other in front, side, and plan views.
   6. Ordnance items (bombs, rockets, pylons, etc.) aligned correctly with aircraft and with each other.
5. Canopies and other clear areas:
   1. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
   2. Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
   3. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.
6. Decals must look painted on if depicting painted markings (conforming to surface contours, no silvering or bubbling, no decal film apparent).

Details

1. Overly thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced, e.g., wing trailing edges and similar surfaces, ordnance fins, landing gear doors, edges of open panels, etc.
2. Wheel wells, intakes, scoops, etc. should be blocked off to prevent a "see-through" effect.
3. Gun barrels, exhaust stacks, intakes, vents, and similar openings should be opened.
4. Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.
5. External stores should be built/finished to the same level of quality as the model. Stores/weapons combinations on a model should represent only those combinations actually carried by the real aircraft, i.e. a jet carrying missiles too old/new for the model. A prop aircraft carrying the wrong drop tanks. Poor research takes away from the overall impression of model.
6. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped and any surfaces or require building up to a thicker cross-section should be integrate seamlessly.

Painting and Finishing

1. The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).
2. Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual aircraft's finish are being duplicated, documentation of such irregularities is required.
   1. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
   2. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in areas such as fillets or wing roots.
   3. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.
3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.
5. Weathering, if present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be in accordance with the conditions in which the real aircraft was operating, and be consistent throughout the model (a factory-fresh interior would be unlikely on a 100-mission aircraft).
6. Decals
   1. Aligned properly. (If the real aircraft had a markings anomaly; e.g., an inverted U.S. insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)
   2. Some modern aircraft use decals rather than paint for standard markings. If the real aircraft suffers from problems with decal application, such anomalies should be documented if duplicated on the model.
7. Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, aside from gross inaccuracies such as a light green "Red Arrows" aircraft, color shades should not be used to determine a model's accuracy or lack thereof. Again, models with unusual colors should be supported by confirming documentation.

Class II: Military Vehicles

Judging Criteria

The following criteria is listed as a guide, not absolute rules. Those are covered in the official contest rules. Construction is the first consideration, then finish (including markings), then weathering. Accuracy is ONLY for a tie breaker if needed! Judging is a balance of all the criteria. A great, almost issue free construction does not automatically overrule rough/sloppy paint in the same way a great paint finish does not overrule construction issues; everything needs to be balanced out. There are some construction issues that are nearly impossible to recover from: crooked tracks/wheels, gaping seams, easily found glue marks. Just as there are for finish, brush marks, fingerprints, unpainted/parts, inconsistent paint. And finally weathering, this can be a make-or-break criteria. Heavily applied, uneven and/or unrealistic weathering can ruin an otherwise good build.

Basic Construction

1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, provisions for motorization eliminated.
2. Seams filled where applicable, especially on cylindrical parts such as gun barrels, wheels, and auxiliary equipment.
3. Contour errors corrected. (Armor models will sometime suffer from contour issues in on the turret. This is an area of extreme expertise and would be considered a detail of last resort.)
4. Gaps between upper and lower hulls blanked off to prevent a "see-through" effect.
5. Gap/overlap at point where track ends join eliminated.
6. Machine guns, main guns, exhausts, vents, etc. drilled out/opened up.
7. Cylindrical cross-section of gun barrels maintained.
8. Track pattern (cleats) facing in the proper direction on both sides of vehicle.
9. Alignment
   1. Road wheels on tracked vehicles (along with idler, drive, and return rollers, if any) at the same distance from the lower chassis centerline.
   2. Road wheels sitting flush on the track.
   3. Tracks vertical (not leaning in or out when viewed from the front or back of the vehicle) and parallel (not toed in or out when viewed from top of vehicle).
   4. All wheels/tracks sitting firmly on the ground.
   5. Vehicle components square and aligned.
   6. Gun(s) (on most turreted vehicles) parallel to turret centerline when viewed from above.
   7. Items positioned symmetrically on actual vehicle (e.g., headlights and guards, fenders, mud flaps, etc.) positioned symmetrically on model, unless represented as damaged.

Details

1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced.
2. Weld marks should be simulated where applicable.
3. Extra parts should be added if practical, with references used to confirm their existence on the actual vehicle. Such parts should be as close to scale as possible.
   1. Add (especially on conversion or scratch-built models) the small detail parts (rivets, nuts and bolts, etc.) usually found in standard injection-molded kits.
   2. Add tarps, bedrolls, chains, fuel cans, etc., but be sure to also add some method by which such items are attached to the vehicle (hook, rope, tie down). Jerrycans are not attached to real tanks with superglue.
   3. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.
4. Molded-on parts such as axes and shovels should be undercut or removed completely and replaced. This is especially true of molded screen, which should be replaced with real screen.
5. Track "sag" on tracked vehicles should be duplicated where appropriate.
6. Windshield wipers should be added where appropriate.
7. Headlights and tail lights should be drilled out and have lenses added.
8. Cable and electrical lines should be added to lights and smoke dischargers.
9. Valve stems should be added to tires.
10. Instrument faces on dashboards should have detail picked out and lenses added.
11. Gas and brake pedals should be added to open-wheeled vehicles.
12. Road wheel interiors should be detailed (this is especially necessary on the Hetzer).
13. Molded grab handles and hatch levers should be replaced with wire or stretched sprue.
14. Underside of model, if viewable, should be given the same attention to detail as the top; e.g., motor holes filled, paint applied, weathering on the inside of the road wheels consistent with that on the outside. If the vehicle being modeled was weathered, normal wear and tear to the bottom of the hull from riding over the usual rocks, brush, and other obstacles should be visible on the model. The underside of the model WILL be judged as best as possible while limiting touching of the model.

Painting and Finish

1. The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).
2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle's finish are being duplicated. Exceptions such as zimmerit or non-slip surfaces should be documented.
   1. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
   2. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in recessed areas.
   3. No random differences in sheen finish caused by application of final clear coats.
3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Decals: Aligned properly. (If the real vehicle had a markings anomaly, the modeler should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of their own.) No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.
5. Colors: Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, color shade should not be used to determine a model' s accuracy. Models with unusual colors or color schemes should be accompanied by documentation.

Weathering

If present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be consistent throughout the model, and be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating. Be careful to distinguish some of the purposely "heavy-handed" paint schemes from over-zealous weathering. Extreme examples should be documented. Weathering should not be used to attempt to hide flaws in construction or finishing.

Class III: Figures

The underlying premise of a miniature is that it should look like a small version of a real person. The closer the figure comes to that goal, the better the figure will appear to the judges.

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
2. Mold seams removed.
3. Construction seams filled in where appropriate (e.g., where arms meet shoulders, legs meet boots, etc.) and creases that cross these seams restored.
4. Equipment properly attached, e.g., holsters not hanging in space, canteens attached to belts.
5. Straps hanging properly. Rifle slings, horse harnesses, etc. hanging/sagging properly to depict their weight.
6. Feet touching the ground/surface properly.

Detailing

1. Straps should have proper thickness.
2. Gun barrels should be drilled/hollowed out.
3. Accessories and equipment should be in proper scale for the figure.
4. Ground bases should show footprints.
5. Foliage should harmonize with the figure (e.g., no flowers present when figure is in winter clothes).
6. Lapels and collars should be slightly raised whenever possible.
7. Slings should be added to weapons where necessary.

Painting and Finishing

1. Cloth should have the proper sheen, e.g., a matt finish for wool.
2. Leather should have a slight sheen except for dress shoes and polished belts.
3. Finish should have an even texture. Brush marks should not be present.
4. Dry brushing should not be apparent as such.
5. Blending of highlighted and shaded areas with the basic color should be smooth, gradual, and subtle. No demarcation lines should show.
6. Shadows should be present when two surfaces meet (e.g., belts over tunics) and on undersurfaces (e.g., between legs and under arms).
7. White should not be used in eyes in order to avoid a pop-eyed look.
8. Eyes should be symmetrical; figure should not be wall-eyed or cross-eyed.
9. Figures shown on ground should have feet/footwear slightly indented in the earth to depict weight.
10. Weathering of feet or shoes, if depicted, should be appropriate to the ground cover.
11. Equipment being worn by, or slung on, the figure should be given an appearance of weight, e.g., by indenting straps slightly into the shoulder.
12. Headgear shadows should show on the figure's face.
13. Equipment such as swords should have a shadow shown on the figure.
14. Flesh tones should reflect the climate in which the figure is depicted.

Note: Additional equipment such as a desk, bar, etc. will not be judged unless such equipment is included with the original figure casting/kit.

Class IV: Ships

The scales referenced in this section refer to the following convention:

• 1/700 refers to scales 1/451 and smaller.
• 1/350 refers to scales 1/450 to 1/101 (and larger as applicable)
• 1/72 refers to scales 1/100 and larger.

Category Definitions

• Aircraft Carriers: 400 (1/700) and 401 (1/350) - Entries in these categories shall consist of purpose-built or converted ships with large decks whose mission is to launch and recover aircraft. These categories do not include other types of ships which have a flight deck or launch recovery mechanism and may be considered ‘aircraft capable’ (i.e., destroyers, CAM ships, landing craft, etc.).

• Battleships, Battlecruisers, and Cruisers: 402 (1/700) and 403 (1/350) – Entries in these categories shall consist of large to medium ships whose mission is battleline, scouting, screening, and/or commerce raiding. The time frame of these entries represents the Dreadnought to modern era. See category 408 for earlier time frames.
• Other Surface Ships, smaller than cruiser-sized: 404 (1/700) and 405 (1/350) – Entries in these categories shall consist of other medium to small ships, destroyers, escorts, patrol craft, larger landing craft and commercial ships. A commercial ship entry may be either a purpose-built ship (cruise ship, container, bulker, etc.,) or a de-militarized ship (e.g. Liberty or Victory-type bearing shipping house markings/flags)
• Sailing: 407 (all scales/eras) – Entries in this class shall consist of wind-powered craft with rigging. Masts, yards, and rigging are expected. The presence of sails is not required. Oar-assisted ships (galleys, bireme/trireme, etc.) are also entered in this category. The inclusion of wooden sail-powered ship models in this category is expected.
• Early Steam and Sail: 408 (all scales) – Entries in this category shall represent the transition period of propulsion power, the time frame begins with the American Civil War and goes through the Victorian/Edwardian period, generally ending in the Spanish-American or Russo-Japanese Wars. This category will include ironclads, rams, and pre-dreadnoughts.
• Submarines: 412 (1/700, all eras) – Entries in this category consist of small-scale submarines of either submersible or modern type.

• Submarines: 413 Entries in this category are submersible craft with characteristics similar to a surface ship; sharp bow, open conning tower, railings. Additionally, entries in this category are true submarines in that they have a shape optimized for extended underwater operation; streamlined, enclosed conning tower and few if any rails. If this category is split by era, the date separation is based on design dates put forth by Dr Norman Friedman in is reference books on US submarine design

• Submarines: 415 (1/72, all eras) – Entries in this category are large-scale submarines of either submersible or modern type.
• Boats, Speedboats, Motor Torpedo Boats, Motor Patrol Boats, Landing Craft, etc.: 418 (all scales/eras) – Entries in this category consist of small craft which are capable of being taken out of the water (although not required) for transit on a larger ship or other means of transport.
• Naval Technology: 420 (all scales/all eras) - Entries in this category consist of standalone naval equipment, such as gun turrets, gun or missile mounts, boat davit sets, or aircraft catapults. Chibi Maru/Egg Ships will also be considered in this category. Entries in this category were removed from inclusion in the Miscellaneous Class (Category 860) for 2023.
• Conversions and Scratch-Built: 423 (all scales/eras) – A Scratch-built entry is one for which there is no commercially available kit. The modeler develops the entry using scratch-building materials and methods to create the parts and model in accordance with plans.
  • A totally 3D printed model is not considered scratch-built.
  • Commercially available detail parts (i.e., photoetch, resin, 3D print, metal) may be used in the completion of the model, but will not comprise the major portion of the scratch- built entry.
    • A conversion entry is a commercially available kit which has its class, configuration, or silhouette SUBSTANTIVELY CHANGED by the modeler, using either a commercially available conversion set, scratch-building materials or parts from another model.
    • The effectiveness or complexity of the conversion or scratch-built entry may be considered.
• Basic Kit Build: 426 (all scales/eras) – A Basic Kit Build entry shall be composed of single-media only built from the contents of a kit. Only the primary material type contained in the kit may be used in the completion of the entry. No other type of material contained in the kit may be used. The entry must be accompanied by the instruction sheet so that adherence to the single media criteria may be confirmed. If the instructions are not provided or the entry is determined to not be of single media construction the model will be moved to the appropriate standard category.

A note about Hypothetical Ship entries; for at least the last 20 years it has been the understanding among the ship model judges that if plans have been drawn (officially or unofficially) and a modeler develops his entry in accordance with those plans, it is not hypothetical. The model may represent a ship which never actually appeared in the model configuration (example USS Lexington as a battlecruiser).

Entry Evaluation Criteria

Presentation

• A model entry may be presented as whole hull or waterline.

• A whole hull presentation will include the running gear (shaft(s), propeller(s), and/or rudder(s) typical of the prototype.
• A whole hull entry may include underwater details such as: sonar domes, sea chests, intake & exhaust ports or other fittings on the prototype. The absence of these details is not a downgrade criterion.
• A whole hull entry may be presented on pedestals, keel blocks, cradle, or other mounting base.
• A waterline presentation is representative of the ship visible from the waterline up. As such no underwater details are expected or required,
• A waterline entry may be presented without a base, on a sea-base, or a plain material base.
• With the exception of the Vignette/Diorama categories, bases will not be evaluated as part of the model entry.
• The simple dynamic movement (bow waves, wakes) of a waterline ship presented on a sea base will not require for placement into a vignette/diorama category. Similarly, a ship ‘doing what a ship does’ with its basic mission, as in an aircraft carrier launching an airplane, does not necessarily place the entry into a vignette/diorama.
  • The modeler may choose to place an entry, with a possible poorer vignette/diorama quality into one of these categories, understanding that the totality of the presentation will be evaluated.
  • The modeler may choose to place a vignette/diorama entry into a standard category understanding that only the ship subject will be evaluated.
• The evaluation of ship vignettes and dioramas will include the base and other structural components to determine the effectiveness of the presentation of the vignette ‘slice of time’ or diorama story.

Basic Construction

• No glue strands or fingerprints

• Flash, visible trademarks, mold seams, sink marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
• Seams filled. Details lost by filling/sanding will be re-scribed/replaced.
• Cylindrical items (masts, yards, gun barrels) will remain round. They must not be sanded to an oval shape.
• Glue puddles around figure’s feet or flaked-in lines should be minimized.
• Shiny glue beads along railing runs should be toned down and blended into the surrounding structure with a dull coat.
• Alignment
  • When viewed bow or stern on
    • Periscopes, masts, and projections are vertical and aligned parallel to the central axis of the ship unless presented otherwise on the prototype.
    • If whole-hull, bilge keels will appear symmetrical.
    • Yards are aligned perpendicular to the mast axis unless presented otherwise on the prototype. Sailing ships may have yards arrayed at ‘off angles’ to catch the wind.
    • Signal halyard lines shall run from the yardarm to the flag bag and not have visible frayed cuts at the tie off points.
    • Antenna runs shall be prototypically taut and shall run between antenna lead-in points. Antenna insulators may be applied with drops of glue.
    • Superstructure bulkheads shall be aligned vertically and parallel with the central axis of the ship, unless otherwise on the prototype
    • Superstructure decks shall be generally parallel with the main deck, unless otherwise on the prototype. Deck camber should be considered.
    • Railings should stand vertical, neither leaning in nor out.
  • When viewed beam on
    • Periscopes, masts, and other projections are generally vertical in appearance. Masts may display a fore or aft rake consistent with the prototype.
    • Mast stays, lines, antennas, and other rigging will be prototypically taut and not have frayed cuts at tie-off points. Fabric lines will be waxed or otherwise treated to minimize fuzzy appearance.
    • Superstructure bulkheads shall be aligned vertically and perpendicular with the central axis of the ship, unless otherwise on the prototype
    • Superstructure decks shall be generally parallel with the main deck, unless otherwise on the prototype.
  • When viewed in plan (topside view)
    • Photoetched railing details should not appear wavy.
    • Gun alignment – gun barrels are aligned with the train of the turret/gun mount. Barrels do not point off in wonky directions. Gun elevations may be different as per the prototype.

Detailing

• All small parts (including masts, bulwarks, splinter shields, railings, and rigging) should be thinned as close to scale as possible.

• Small details sanded off during construction should be replaced with scratch-built or aftermarket material.
• Gun barrels and vents should be drilled out whenever possible.
• Sailing ship rigging and lines should be correct for the era being modeled. Rigging should be appropriately taut and attached properly (no frayed or flyaway ends at tie-off points).
• Deadeyes and blocks should be in scale and in proportion to the rigging lines used.
• Shell/expansion plating or oil-canning effects may be added. They should be in scale and relate to the prototype internal structure.
• Kit-included detail materials, with BKB/Single Media exceptions and limitations, may always be used. Aftermarket or scratch-built detail items of diverse materials such as plastic, resin, wood, cast metal, photo-etched, 3D-printed, thread/monofilament, etc. may be used in the standard (non-BKB/Single Media categories).
• Photo-etched detail parts
  • Nubs and burrs where parts are removed from sprue must be eliminated.
  • Paint should cover applied brass details completely. There should be no brass color showing at nicks, cracks, cuts, or bends.
  • Parts should not be unintentionally damaged or bent.
  • Radar screens or netting pieces will not have grids filled with paint or glue
  • Glue marks and buildups should not show. They should appear seamlessly blended.
  • Parts (e.g., rails and stanchions) should not overlap.
  • Railing runs should have logical starting/ending points (stanchion, bulkhead, gun tub, etc.,) They don’t just end in mid-air.
  • All railings should be straight when viewing the model bow to stern (no wavy railings).
  • Railings must line up horizontally and vertically where they join.
  • Corner (box) seams created when parts are bent to shape should be filled.

Painting and Finishing

• No paint fingerprints.

• Care should be taken with the wooden models and deck details.
  • Distracting 1:1 scale wood grain effect should be minimized.
  • End grain pieces should be finished to a similar consistency as long grain parts.
• 3D printed models and parts will be primed and finished in a manner to minimize the striation affects often present in the media.
• Paint should have a matt or satin finish unless a different sheen is being used to create a special effect.
• Paint should be even and smooth, exhibiting no brush marks, masking ridges, or "orange-peel" effect. Unintentional overspray of adjacent surfaces is minimized.
• Except for natural wood models, the model surface should be painted even if the model material is the same color as the desired finish. A clear coat could be used but must be applied in a manner to prevent application faults.
• Unless appearing on the prototype, deck colors should not wrap onto the bulkheads, nor the bulkhead colors wrap onto the decks. There should be a demarcation in paint between the surfaces.
• Decals
  • Aligned properly. Unusual markings or markings placement must be documented.
  • No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.
• Weathering should be consistent and appropriate across the entry. But the nature of a ship and its environment may lead to inconsistent upkeep.

Class V: Automotive

Basic Construction

1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
2. Seams filled if not found on the actual vehicle. (This is especially important on the car's body. Rubberized kit tires usually also have a mold seam that must be removed.)
3. Contour errors corrected.
4. Gaps between body and chassis eliminated as applicable.
5. Detailing removed while accomplishing the above steps restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.
6. Alignment
   1. Where applicable, external items (e.g., mirrors, exhaust pipes) aligned symmetrically.
   2. Internal items (e.g., seats, some engine/drive components) aligned properly.
   3. Wheels: All wheels touching the ground and aligned properly when viewed from front or rear of the vehicle. If turned, front wheels should be aligned in the same direction
7. Windshields and other clear areas
   1. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
   2. Gaps between windshield, windows, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
   3. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

Detailing

1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced.
2. Exhausts, intakes, vents, and other objects that have openings should be opened.
3. Additional detailing added to the vehicle should be as close to scale as possible. Such items could include door-lock buttons, tire valve stems, dashboard gauge detail, fabric surfaces on interior components, etc. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.
4. Engine and chassis detailing should be done to a level consistent with detailing on the rest of the model.
5. Working parts, if any (e.g., opening hoods or doors), should match the level of workmanship on the rest of the model. Such parts should operate realistically, and the operating mechanism(s) should be in scale if visible.

Painting and Finishing

1. The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).
2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle's finish are being duplicated. Such irregularities should be documented.
   1. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
   2. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in recessed areas.
   3. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.
3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Chrome parts should be correctly represented and should be just as free of surface blemishes and evidences of the construction process as the painted components.
5. Weathering: Although weathering is gaining more acceptance in the automotive ranks, especially with some trucks and certain types of racing cars (such as the Rally types), it is not standard practice. Most auto modelers build what is considered a "show" car or restored car, and because of this, weathering will be the exception rather than the rule. If present, however, weathering should show concern for scale, be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating, and be consistent throughout the model.
6. Decals
   1. Decals should be aligned properly. This is especially important for racing subjects.
   2. Water-slide decals should show no evidence of silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

Class VI: Space and Science Fiction

Space and Science Fiction models depict a wide variety of subjects, from real vehicles to complete flights of fancy. In so doing, they run the gamut from sleek "rocket ships" to boxy satellites, and robots to alien armored vehicles. Models of actual spacecraft are typically judged much like aircraft or vehicle models. The incredible range of science fiction subjects, however, would seem at first glance to defy any attempt at systematic judging. Yet even a model that represents a builder's total flight of fancy can still be judged on the basis of basic scale modeling skills.

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
2. Seams filled if not present on the actual prototype. If depicting a subject with visible seams, such detail should be uniform and to scale throughout the model.
3. Detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.
4. Alignment
   1. Wings, fins, pods, etc., have same dihedral or anhedral on both sides and, when viewed from various angles, line up properly with the vehicle centerline.
   2. Landing/running gear components properly aligned with vehicle and with each other in front, side, and plan views.
   3. Ordnance items (laser cannon, photon-torpedo tubes, etc.) aligned correctly with vehicle and with each other.
5. Canopies and other clear areas
   1. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
   2. Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
   3. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

Details

1. Overly thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced. This is especially true of the antennas supplied with many kits. Kit versions often appear too "fat" and lack detail.
2. Scoops and other such openings should be blocked off to prevent a "see-through" effect.
3. Weapon barrels, exhausts, intakes, vents, small thrusters, steering rockets, etc. should be drilled or opened.
4. Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.
5. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.
6. Science fiction and fantasy modeling can entail a fair amount of scratch-building or kit-bashing. Items or areas added in this fashion should look useful and truly part of the vehicle, and should be similar in fit, detail, and overall finish to the rest of the model. Parts used from other kits should be sufficiently altered or disguised so that their origin is not immediately apparent in order to avoid the appearance of a haphazard assemblage of spare parts (sometimes known as the "Panzer IV in Space" syndrome).

Painting and Finishing

1. The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).
2. Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual vehicle's finish are being duplicated, documentation of such irregularities is required.
   1. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
   2. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in areas such as cavities or inside corners.
   3. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.
3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.
5. Weathering, if present, should be consistent throughout the model, not overdone, and appropriate for the vehicle and the conditions in which it was (or would be) operating. Reentry vehicles (Space Shuttle, Apollo, etc.) should show some aerodynamic weathering if depicted in a post-reentry or landing mode. Rocket engine nozzles generally should show some sort of weathering, particularly on the inside; but check references, as such weathering can vary greatly from one type of nozzle to another.
6. Decals
   1. Aligned properly. (If the actual prototype had a markings anomaly, e.g., an inverted insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)
   2. No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.
   3. Uniform finish (a consideration if using decal bits from a variety of sources).
7. Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather, sunlight, supernova explosions, etc., and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, except for gross inaccuracies such as a black Space Shuttle Columbia, color shades should not be used to determine the accuracy of a model that represents an actual spacecraft or a specific TV or movie science fiction vehicle. Of course, for science fiction models that are solely the product of the builder's imagination, the rule on colors is "anything goes."
8. If the vehicle, such as a space probe, has multi-layer insulation blankets (gold or silver foil, etc.) any such application should represent the wavy or crinkled surface typical of such insulation.

Class VII: Miscellaneous

Refer to the above guidelines for any model that fits in the miscellaneous class. Of course you must understand the 2024 Contest Rules as far as placing your model in the correct category, particularly as far as the Triathalon, collections and Group Build categories. Size matters. Keep in mind that the larger the model, the more attention must be given to smaller details that can be overlooked. Size does not necessarily mean standard judging criteria will be overlooked.

Hypothetical Vehicles and/or Aircraft, Categories 720 & 721

The Hypothetical category was established both to provide a competition slot for models that don't fit into the standard categories, and to take some of the pressure off the Miscellaneous category--previously the only place such models could compete. Think of Hypothetical as something akin to the "Science-Fiction Vehicles" part of the "Space and Science-Fiction Vehicles" category. It's a place for aircraft, cars, ships, etc. that never made it off the drawing board (Luftwaffe 1946, futuristic auto designs), for models in markings that the actual vehicle never wore (Royal Navy F7U Cutlass, Go/Ho 229 flying wing in squadron markings), and for vehicles that have never existed anywhere but in the mind of the modeler (an Indy Car with a body fashioned from a MiG-29 fuselage). What about a full-size, 3-D mock-up of a prospective vehicle? Well, if the builder produces a model of that mock-up, the model goes in the appropriate standard category. But if he paints that mock-up in colors and markings it never wore, it's a hypothetical vehicle. In other words, if the model is a true, scale representation of a vehicle that actually existed in three dimensions, it belongs in a standard category. If it doesn't fit that description, and it isn't a space or science-fiction subject, it belongs in Hypothetical.

Class VIII: Dioramas

A diorama is a combination of model(s) and a believable setting that tells a story, sets a mood, or creates a charged atmosphere. In addition to evaluating the modeling of a diorama's individual elements, the judges will consider the strength of the diorama's story line or mood and the overall presentation of the diorama. These three factors are equally important. Dioramas with superbly modeled components but a weak story line and presentation will almost certainly lose to a diorama with well-modeled components and strong story and presentation.

Vignettes may also tell a story or may simply depict a ‘moment in time/location.’ In other words, a vignette is a snapshot or picture.

Model Components

The individual model components of a diorama will be judged according to the criteria specified in the appropriate individual class. That is, armor pieces will be subject to armor judging criteria while figures will be evaluated according to the figure modeling guidelines. As always, the basics of construction and finishing are of prime importance. Terrain, roadwork, buildings, and accessories that set the scene of the diorama will be evaluated similarly to the primary model components. Basic construction and finish are once again paramount.

Presentation

The diorama base should comprise individual elements that combine to form a realistic and/or plausible setting for the primary model component(s). Each of the elements also should be believable in its own right and consistent with the action or mood being depicted. The degree of imagination and inventiveness used to pose the main elements will factor into the overall presentation evaluation. The base should provide a focal point for the scene and fit or enhance the story line or mood of the diorama. Dioramas with a well-defined focal point highlighting a simple story generally will have a stronger presentation than those attempting to portray an entire battlefield.

Story Line, Mood, Atmosphere

This element is what separates the diorama from models merely set on a base. A simple derelict vehicle rusting away in a field can set a mood as well as, or better than, a complete recreation of the Battle of Waterloo. The story, mood, or atmosphere created by the diorama should be obvious; the judges shouldn't have to strain to see it. Stories can incorporate historical or even humorous aspects. Here again, imagination and inventiveness in telling the story or setting the mood can lift a diorama out of the ordinary.

Ship Diorama: 442 (all scales/eras)

A ship diorama is one or more ship subjects interacting with the environment, each other, and/or an off-scene element to present an event or story. The totality of the presentation; model(s), base, finish, action, and strength of story will be evaluated. The strength of the story presented will be given an equivalent weight to that of the model(s). Of course, the vignette will be more of a snapshot with fewer subjects in conformation as described above.

Class IX: Gundam

(Gundams are currently part of Class VI Sci-FI. Due to their popularity, there is a plan for Gundam to get their own class in 2025 with revised categories.)

What Is Gundam?

Gundam is an anime that premiered on April 27, 1979. Before Gundam, anime shows featuring giant robots were much different. These “super robots” could fly, shoot lasers, and be sentient without relying on any sort of scientific realism. Gundam flipped these norms on their heads and had realistic robots that were, essentially, replacements for tanks and jets. They required a pilot, could overheat, run out of ammunition, and be severely damaged in combat. Their immense popularity spawned hundreds of model kits that could be collected, built and customized. Building Gunpla (Gundam Plastic Model Kits) has grown into an international pastime, as well as a massive commercial industry.

Gundam model kits are solely manufactured by Bandai. There is a huge difference between the old and new Gundam kits. Older Gundam kits have the characteristics that you would expect from a kit of the 80’s often having poorly fitting parts and constructed using glue. In 1987 Bandai developed their first Gundam snap kit. After this they were soon engineering all of their kits so they could be snapped together and molded the parts in multiple colors enabling anyone to build a great looking model right out of the box.

These Are Not Rules

These are a set of artistic criteria by which judges can compare models uniformly and fairly. The key element in fair judging is that the judges work to the same set of criteria in assessing the entries. The criteria here offer few absolutes and qualifiers like "should be," "often," and "can be" are frequent. Judging is ultimately a matter of personal opinion, and while that opinion can be guided, it cannot be dictated. These criteria should therefore be viewed more as a set of guidelines from which to compare models uniformly.

IPMS/USA Gunpla Categories 607A & 607B

The IPMS/USA is still learning the best way to properly judge Gundam subjects, and this guide is meant to help judges understand its unique characteristics. These kits are becoming more and more popular within the IPMS, and although they are considered part of the Space/Sci Fi class now, in the not-too-distant future, they along with Mecha probably will evolve into their own separate class.

“Slaps”

Many Gunpla modelers like to “advertise” themselves when they compete and place business cards, stickers (known as slaps), and QR codes with their builds. The intent is NOT to sway the judges but to advertise their social media and their “brand”, allowing them to build a following and connect with other builders. “Slaps” are often seen next to entries within Gundam competitions.

Category 607A

This category is limited to Gundam kits which are built out of the box and left unpainted and meant to be a beginners category. These kits are manufactured so once all the parts are snapped together the Gundam will match the multi-color scheme without the need for painting. Only the stickers or waterslide decals supplied may be used. Panel lines on the kit may be accented using a panel line marker or panel line wash. While the kit may not be painted a clear coat may be applied. Aftermarket bases (or “action bases”) may be used to support the model. Any enhancements made to the model beyond this means it will need to be placed in category 607B.

Basic Construction

Parts should be free of any signs of the injection molding process. The attachment points of every part are commonly referred to as “nubs”. Ideally there should be no evidence they were ever there (remember, the Gundams in category this are unpainted) and match the surfaces of the rest of the model. The only thing that may be visible is a “dark spot” where the sprue tree met the part. This is due to the molding process, these areas had more heat applied than the rest of the part, causing the spot. Judges should ignore these “dark spots” because they are impossible to remove. However, when “nubs” are removed too quickly a light-colored stress mark may result and these kinds of marks will count against the kit. The surfaces of the Gundam should be free of any scratches, gouges or other flaws from hobby tools. Parts should be tightly pressed together revealing no unsightly gaps. Gundam kits are designed so that most parts meet in such a manner which replicates how they would meet on the real thing, so there will be a sort of natural panel line here. Molding lines on individual parts should be removed so that the part should match the rest of the model's surface. No sink marks or ejector pin marks should be visible. Any type of “action base” may be used to support the model.

Stickers & Decals

Nearly all Gundam kits come with sticker sheets instead of waterslide decals. In this category only the stickers or waterslide decals which were supplied with the kit may be used. The clear edges of stickers should not be counted against the model. They should be smoothly applied. The most important factor in sticker/decal placement is that stenciled warnings are symmetrical on the arms, legs and torso. If decals are present the edges should not be silvered.

Panel Lines & Topcoat

Panel lines may be accented with a panel liner such as the Mr. Hobby/GSI Creos Fine Point Gundam Marker for Panel Lines or Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. Panel lines should be of uniform thickness, evenly placed and symmetrical without streaks, smears or globs. If a clear topcoat has been put on the model it should be smooth, clear, and evenly applied without blobs, haziness and runs. The kit should have a smooth uniform finish. If the kit has been weathered, it must be moved to category 607B.

Posing

One of the most important aspects of Gundams is that they can be put into a multitude of unique poses. Poses go hand in hand with the model's presentation which can take many forms. A Gundam could be placed right on the tabletop, or on a base replicating a ship's hangar bay or supported on an “action Base”. Ideally, a Gundam should be in a pose that shows it in an action relative to its presentation. If it is meant to be in a battling pose, it should be dynamic and understandable. If it is being repaired, it may look haggard. If it is just standing it should look like it is at attention and ready to accept a pilot. Judges should penalize kits in which the details of the pose do not line up with the model’s presentation. Bases themselves are not judged.

Category 607B

This category is meant to replicate the advanced categories in most Gundam competitions. In this category are Gundam kits which have been customized, painted or built completely from resin or other 3d printed parts. It also includes older Gundam kits from the 80’s and 90’s which must be glued together. The sky's the limit here as to what the builder can do to their model. Lighting kits are allowed in this category. Any “action base” may be used to support the model.

Basic Construction

Parts should be free of any signs of the injection molding process. The attachment points of every part are commonly referred to as “nubs”. Ideally there should be no evidence they were ever there and match the surfaces of the rest of the model. The only thing that may be visible is a “dark spot” where the sprue tree met the part. This is due to the molding process, these areas had more heat applied than the rest of the part, causing the spot. Judges should ignore these “dark spots” because they are impossible to remove. However, when “nubs” are removed too quickly a light-colored stress mark may result and these kinds of marks will count against the kit. The surfaces of the Gundam should be free of any scratches, gouges or other flaws from hobby tools. If the kit has been snapped together, its parts should be tightly pressed together revealing no unsightly gaps. Gundam kits are designed so that most parts meet in such a manner which replicates how they would meet on the real thing, so there will be a sort of natural panel line here. For glue together kits, parts should be assembled so that there are no visible seams, sink marks, or ejector pin marks. Molding lines on individual parts should be removed so that the part should match the rest of the model's surface.

Resin and 3D Printed Kits

If the Gundam is “Garage kit” the cast resin or 3D printed parts should all be free of defects related to the casting or printing process. Ultimately, these parts should be indistinguishable from their plastic counterparts and be free of seams and blemishes.

Added Or Enhanced Panel Lines

It is common for Gundam kits to have added and enhanced panel lines. If so, they should be of uniform size and be symmetrically matched on arms, legs and torso. If the path of the scribed line is meant to be straight it should be so without scratches and if there are hard corners in the path, they should be sharp and crisp. If the lines are curved, the arcs should be smooth. Panel lines may be scribed in different thicknesses and depths as long as the effect is logical, uniform and symmetrical.

Kitbashing & Scratchbuilding

Builders often enhance the surface of their Gundams with additional panels, called “pla-plates” cut from plasticard. They should be crisp, clean, fully seated on the surface and appear as if they were not just haphazardly stuck on. Builders may also add kitbashed parts from other kits or may even add scratchbuilt additional parts using styrene sheet and rod stock. These added parts should follow the same rules as basic construction and be free of scratches, gouges, sink marks, ejector pin marks with no gaps or seams. The added parts should appear fully integrated into the Gundam and not look tacked on or out of character.

Battle Damage

If the Gundam has battle damage it shouldn’t look like it was made by a kitchen knife held over a candle. Battle damage should appear as if it were made by a beam saber, blaster or rocket impact and be logically placed and appropriately scaled. If the damage makes it so any of the interior mechanisms can be seen, these details should be well constructed and logically reflect what would be in that area of the Gundam.

Painting, Panel Shading & Weathering

If the model has been painted the paint should be uniform, smooth and blemish free with no signs of the construction process underneath. Fingerprints, dust, orange peel, runs, splatters, rough, overly thick or thin paint, uneven application and brush marks should be eliminated. Paint edges should be sharp, unless meant to be feathered, and smooth with no ridges. There should be no excess paint accumulation in corners, angles or recesses. If the builder has used “panel shading” to embellish the Gundam’s armor plates, the effect should seamlessly transition from the base color into the shading effect and appear aesthetically pleasing. The same holds true for weathering effects, they should be logical and appropriate to the feel of what situation the builder has placed the Gundam in. A Gundam in a flying pose getting ready for battle will likely be very clean, while one being repaired in a hanger afterwards will have more damage and weathering. The style, boldness, or subtlety of these effects should not be judged, only how well they were done. Unlike military kits, the painting styles are oftentimes very bold.

Stickers & Decals

Stickers are acceptable, but at this level the builder should be using waterslide decals. Any decals may be used whether supplied with the kit or aftermarket. Decals should be smoothly applied and they should be snug to the surfaces where they appear with no wrinkles or bubbles. The edges of the decals should not be noticeable or silvered. Ideally, decals should appear as if they had been painted onto the Gundam. Also check to make sure that all the stenciled warnings are angled correctly and symmetrical on the arms, legs and torso.

Clear Topcoat

If a clear topcoat has been put on the model it should be smooth, clear, and evenly applied without blobs, haziness and runs. The kit should have a smooth uniform finish.

Lighting Effects

Many Gundams may be enhanced with lighting kits either supplied with the kit or purchased separately. If you are judging a kit with lights, the wires should not be visible and hidden in the kit or base. When the lights are on, there should be no light bleeding though random areas of the model.

Posing

One of the most important features of a Gundam kit is that it can be put into a multitude of unique poses and are related to the model's presentation which can take many forms. A Gundam could be placed right on the tabletop, or on a base replicating a ship's hangar bay or supported on a “action base” in an action pose. Ideally, a Gundam should be in a pose that shows it in an action relative to its presentation. If it is meant to be in a battling pose, it should be dynamic and understandable. If it is being repaired, it may look haggard. If it is just standing it should look like it is at attention and ready to accept a pilot. Judges should penalize kits in which the details of the pose do not line up with the model’s presentation. Bases themselves are not judged.

Dioramas Are Not Really A Thing

In the modeling world of Gundam, dioramas are not typically treated as a separate category. Rather, the “diorama” is part of its presentation and will inform and enhance the action of the pose.

Gundam is Freedom

“Gunpla is Freedom” is a saying within the Gunpla Community and shorthand for the idea that you can build your Gunpla the way you want to express your creativity. This is not because “Gundam aren’t real” but more to do with how fans are expected to make the characters from anime shows their own. As a result, you will see a huge variation in just how characters will look. Within the world of Gundam modeling it is expected that modelers will create their own interpretations of the mobile suits.

Contests and Judging

A model contest at any level is measuring one model against another. Evaluating models against one another is not a "slam" on some at the benefit of the others. The models that are entered in any given contest/category are ranked ordered against each other. That's why there is no "National Standard." The best model in any category or contest is just that--no more, no less. There may be others that are better, but none of those matters - we're looking at only what's present on the contest table. The final result of the judging says only that, of the models entered in this particular category on this particular day, this one's better than that one. In another example of competition, is the story of a small town horse show. “The seven horses enter into the ring ridden by men. They pranced round and round and then the judge lined them up and awarded 1^st, 2^nd, etc. Then the same horses came out with women riders, and then kids. Each time the judge watched and then lined them up in a different order.” The writer never did really understand the judging criteria used, but obviously the combination of horse and rider made a difference. The horse didn’t change colors. They probably went to a different town every weekend and never got the same result twice. Competition is the same everywhere.

Back to models. As we’ve discussed we are rating works of art, the product of a modeler's skills developed over years. The results of that rating like the horse judging are mostly subjective. That's why we don't use scoring sheets. There are no numbers in the universe that will allow anyone to say with assurance that a minor seam on a model is worth "x" points, while a silvered decal is worth "y" points. Every contest is different because the models are different. There is no "National Standard" for the judges to measure against. There is really no way to do that. Numbers are often used to create the appearance of objectivity, when their assignment is essentially subjective. So, we don't use them. We look at the whole model and to determine how well the modeler did in bringing their project to completion.

An IPMS Contest is a challenging effort to bring many different kinds of modelers and models together in a single convention and competition. It's not just aircraft, or cars, or any other single kind of modeling. We've evolved a set of standards and rules that enable us to have a contest that's consistent across this broad range of classes, skills, and interests. It’s not always so easy to do, and can put us at odds with judging techniques, categories, and rules established by organizations that focus on only one kind of model. It works because it allows us to maintain the broadest and most integrated modeling society in the world.

IPMS/USA judges use three-person teams. Three, or another odd number is to avoid ties in the rare instances when the team's decisions are not unanimous. In addition, we try to have each team made up of judges from different sections of the country. We do that so that we can avoid even the appearance of impropriety such as two pals from one chapter giving a friend an award. There is another reason for using judges from different areas. It avoids any category being skewed by a local fad or prejudice. In one area, it may heavy weathering or pre-shading the model. Another area might be sparkling new finishes. Contest results should not be skewed by local preference.

National Contest Publications

• National Contest Categories - REVISED for 2024
• IPMS National Contest General Rules - REVISED for 2024!
• IPMS National Contest Class Specific Rules - REVISED for 2024
• IPMS Competition Handbook and Judges Guide - REVISED for 2024

Qualifications for IPMS/USA National Contest Judges

Judges for the IPMS/USA National Contest held in conjunction with the annual IPMS/USA National Convention must hold a current, Adult membership in the International Plastic Modelers Society.

Prospective new judges will serve their first year in an OJT (on-the-job-training) status, working with a team of experienced National judges. If at all possible, those wishing to become National judges should have first gained judging experience at local IPMS one-day shows, etc.

Integrity

The cornerstone requirement for IPMS/USA National judges, is: INTEGRITY. Integrity is absolutely vital to judging. The National Contest Committee requires integrity from every National judge, and it has a zero-tolerance policy toward those who violate that requirement. Judges have been, and will continue to be, removed from the National judging ranks for proven breaches of integrity. The following are some examples of how we protect the integrity of the contest:

1. All judging is impartial. In the Contest Room, judges have no friends and no enemies. Knowledge of who built a particular model must not influence the outcome of the judging.
2. A judge will never judge his own work, nor will he attempt to influence other judges who are evaluating his work.
3. All judging is done using the same set of rules and applying the same criteria to every model in the room.
4. From the time that judging begins, and until the conclusion of the awards ceremony, judges will not disclose the outcome of any portion of the contest to anyone who did not participate in the judging.
5. During the judging process, judges will point out and discuss a model's pros and cons but will do so in a way that is not disparaging to either the model or its builder.
6. If a judge's model has been nominated for a special award, the judge must not participate in the voting for that award.

This is not an all-inclusive list. The standard is strict. Judges easily meet it by applying the judges' Golden Rule: Judge the work of others in exactly the same way you would want others to judge your own work.

Requirements for Judges

Currency and Attendance

There is minimum experience and currency requirements for IPMS judges. After serving their first year as an OJT, a judge will be expected to judge one National Contest every three years. Non-current judges have to attend an OJT briefing session at their next convention in order to be eligible to judge.

All Judges must attend the Friday afternoon Judges’ Meeting. No matter how many years a judge has participated, failure to attend the meeting and obtain the entry ribbon will preclude that person from being able to enter the contest room.

Once judging has begun, judges will remain in the contest room, except for short breaks. Class Head Judges will form judging teams. After these teams have completed their assignments, they should check with the Chief Judge for assignments in categories not yet judged.

Education

Experienced judges will help train any OJT judges assigned to work with them. They will also evaluate the OJT's suitability to become a National Judge and report any problems to their Class Head Judge or the Chief Judge.

Judges should plan to spend some of their time working with modelers who would like critiques of their models. The NCC encourages judges be available Saturday morning so that modelers who would like a critique/consult from a subject matter judge. Judges will NOT compare one modeler's work with another's. Critiques should be a learning opportunity. The experience is intended to be positive and helpful. The critique is about the model and modeler, not the judge. Don’t make this about you, how you judge, why you downgraded the model. Explain what’s right about the model and what was found that needs improvement. Suggest ways to improve what needs work.

Specific Aspects of Judging

Judging individual categories usually done via a series of "cuts" to determine the best models present. The first cut eliminates entries with obvious flaws, and succeeding cuts will continue to narrow the field until the winners have been decided.

Throughout the judging process, first and most importantly, judges continue to look to at the basics. The judges' first cut will identify models that exhibit obvious flaws in basic construction and finishing, such as open seams or gaps, misaligned parts, glue marks, or poorly applied paint. The second cut is still basics, but those that are smaller and less impactful to the overall appeal of the finish of the model. Often, it is this ranking of the models on the degree of basic construction that determines the final outcome of the category being judged. When basics don't allow for a clear-cut ranking then judges begin to look deeper. That deeper look is based on the checklist provided for each class. Both the judge and the modeler know what is expected, so there should be no surprises.

Beyond the basics, another tremendously important consideration is consistency. A model should exhibit the same standard of building throughout. Thus, an aircraft model in which the builder has super-detailed the cockpit but not the wheel wells could be said to lack a consistent level of detail.

Models are three-dimensional, scale representations of three-dimensional, full-size objects. For that reason, models will be judged in three dimensions because the bottom of the model is just as important as the top. We saved the discussion of the bottom, because this is where finding out what the bottom looks like becomes important. The model has made it through the cut several times and it is down to the last few. Which work of art truly has the consistency to be a winner? It is time to look at the bottom. Designated judges wearing gloves will carefully maneuver the model to the degree required to judge the consistency of the entire model.

"Weathering" is inherently neither good nor bad. When comparing a model with a weathered finish to a model with a pristine finish, the judges will concern themselves with the degree of success achieved by each builder in depicting the intended finish. The same is true of added detail. It is impressive and can might make a difference if the basics are perfect, to include the basics associated with the added detail.

FAQ on Judging and Competition

Know Your Model

At every National Convention, judges have to spend a lot of time before they begin judging a category checking for misplaced models and moving the ones they find to the proper category. Normally, as splits are determined as the show progresses, either the modeler is asked to move a model to the proper split category, or the Head Class Judges and their designees carefully move the models each evening after the contest room is closed. However, if there is no split, much of this misplacement could be avoided if entrants would take a few minutes ahead of time to determine the proper category for each of their models. Remember that the folks working the model registration desk aren't always model builders, although they should be whenever possible. Even if they are modelers, they may build only one type of model and not know a whole lot about any other types. If an entrant knows ahead of time that his twin-engine Do 335 doesn't belong in the "Small Prop and Turboprop, single engine" category because it has two engines, he won't let a registrar put it there. If an entrant has determined that the wingspan or length of the multi-engine jet he's modeling is over 55 feet (not too daunting a research challenge), he won't accept its placement in the "Small Jet" category. Moreover, if he's been clever enough to include the wingspan and length figures on the info sheet he puts with his model, he'll save a lot of questions about whether or not it's correctly placed. Spend a few minutes at home checking these things out while the glue dries and you'll save yourself some hassles, keep your model from being moved more than it absolutely has to be, and earn the gratitude of registrars and judges alike. Of course you can also check with the local Contest Chairman, who is more than willing to help you place your model in the proper category. If your model has a base, always check your base with the Base and Diorama rules to ensure your model is not moved to Dioramas/Vignettes if that is not your intent.

"No Sweeps"

The National Contest Committee over the past several years has implemented a “No Sweeps” rule, meaning that a single modeler can only win one place award, regardless of the number of models he/she has entered in a category. This means that Judges will identify the same builder by observing entry numbers and ensure that only the best of that builder’s entries will be considered for an award.

"The Model Didn't Win?!"

A comment heard at times in the Contest Room after the awards banquet goes something like, "How could this model not have won? Look at the detailing in the . . ." The simple answer to the question is usually either "basics" or "consistency." A super-detailed open turret on an AFV with pigeon-toed tracks is like a mansion built on sand; it's beautiful, but it's sitting on a weak foundation, and that will be its downfall. Similarly, an aircraft with a superbly detailed cockpit and wheel wells, but with navigation lights and anti-collision beacons represented by sloppily applied gloss paint, lacks consistency. The builder incredibly detailed the bits that really interested him/her, then just assembled the rest of the kit to serve as a holder for the detailed

"These Models Are All So Beautiful; How Can Judges Possibly Pick a Winner?"

Judges hear sentiments like this at virtually every National Contest, but many folks might be surprised to learn that the situation often can best be described by the comment regularly heard during slide shows of models: "It looks better in the picture than it actually was." Many models look good sitting on the contest table but begin to lose their luster when the judging starts. The closer look that judging requires often reveals flaws in basic construction that aren't readily apparent to the casual viewer. In fact, in a category with a small number of entries, it's not all that unusual for the judges to finish their first "cut" and discover that everything in the category has one or another type of relatively serious problem. That's when the judging really gets hard! The mistakes are usually basic and relatively minor: seam problems on one model, silvered decals on another, misalignment on a third, etc. It's a little easier if one of the models has something that distinguishes it from the others--some extra work that's been done well, a particularly nice finish, etc.--but if all the models are built to approximately the same level, the judges end up having to determine the winners based on which models have the fewest mistakes, or which of the mistakes on the various models bothers them the least. Judges find this situation really frustrating because any one of the models could have been an immediate winner if the builder had just given a bit more care and attention to the modeling basics.

Accuracy

Absolute accuracy is a noble, but probably unattainable, goal. No scale model is ever 100% accurate, yet some people urge that models be judged principally on their accuracy. This is a real minefield. Yes, gross inaccuracy should be easy to spot -- most would agree that a model of an F-86 with forward-swept wings is inaccurate. Beyond that, however, the situation quickly becomes murky and can lead to unfairness in judging. For example, suppose one of the judges for the 1/72 Multi-engine Jet category had spent the better part of 20 years as a USAF F-4 crew chief. That judge is going to be an absolute expert on Phantoms and probably will be able to find inaccuracies of one type or another on every F-4 entered in the category. But is he equally knowledgeable about Canadian CF-100 Canucks? Probably not. So, if he judges solely on the basis of accuracy, there's a real risk that he will unfairly penalize those who entered F-4 models. The Chief Judge and Class Head Judges take pains every year to remind the judges to be aware of this problem and to be fair to all on this issue. But before we get too wrapped around the accuracy debate, remember that judges concentrate first on the modeling aspects. A model with every component built absolutely accurately probably still won't win if seams between the components aren't filled properly. Conversely, a superbly built model containing an inaccuracy could win if it is, in all other respects, the best model in the category. Judges take lots of hits from modelers who know some minute aspect of a prototype and mistakenly believe that judges must also have that much detailed knowledge and more. It's simply not possible for all IPMS judges to match, model for model, the expertise developed by our disparate and incredibly knowledgeable membership. Don't assume that the judges know all the details you know. Help them and help yourself by putting a little time into the entry sheet or any other display material you put out with your model. Judges do read that stuff, and it could make the difference for you.

IPMS Judging is a Negative System

Because many judges make their selection of category winners based on a series of "cuts" as mentioned earlier, some modelers have accused the judges of negativism and of being nothing but nitpickers. Not true! It stands to reason that many, if not all, of the models in any category are going to be pretty darn good examples of our art. But they are on the table to be ranked, and that's what we have to do. As has been emphasized repeatedly, we rank the models principally by a close look at basic modeling techniques. But when that doesn't result in a final three, we've got to go closer and examine even more critically. It's hard, but there is no other way. And, really, it's a compliment to the incredibly high standards that are being set by IPMS modelers.

Why Do They Use Those Little Flashlights?

Penlights are often needed to even SEE the models in contest rooms that are less than well-lit. In the same vein phone lights are banned because they are too bright and can create false seams. Many of us are older and need the extra light see the details, but we don’t want to create false mistakes. A good penlight is an invaluable aid in highlighting such things as poorly finished seams, unsanded ridges, and poorly finished (or unfinished) interior areas. An old judge's trick is to shine the light across a seam area at an angle. Nothing will pop out an incorrectly filled seam more quickly. Serious competitors would be wise to examine their own models with a penlight before coming to the contest. They might be amazed at what they see!

Judges' Decisions

Players and fans love the umpires or referees when the calls are in their team's favor and hate them when their calls favor the opposing team. Modelers often have similar reactions to IPMS National judges. Many National judges have been cornered after the Awards banquet by a modeler with fire flashing from his eyes demanding to know why his model didn't win. That's not a good way to begin a dialogue, and it almost guarantees that there will be no useful exchange of information.

Before jumping a judge like that, take a moment to consider who these National judges are. They're modelers. Collectively, they exhibit a wide range of modeling interests, skills, background, experience, temperament, and personality, and they're also imperfect human beings. In short, they're just like any other member of IPMS, but with one major distinction: they volunteer to spend a significant chunk of their convention time working damn hard and well into the wee hours to make it possible for the National Contest to exist. The vast majority of judges are also more than willing to share their expertise, discuss your model with you, and give you some tips on things to do (and not do) to give your next model a leg up on its competition. All you have to do is ask--but please do so in the same way you'd want to be asked if you were in the judge's shoes.

And, if you really want to learn what separates the winning models from the rest of the entries in a category, next time you're at a one-day show or a Regional Convention, volunteer to judge. Get yourself assigned to work on a team with experienced judges. Tell them you haven't judged before but want to learn how, and they'll take you under their wing. The vast majority of folks who've done so have found that they've learned more about judging--and model building--in one afternoon than they could have in a whole month of Sundays.

After many years this handbook has been updated and reviewed. My thanks to all the current NCC Head Class Judges, Phil Perry, Chief Judge, and Dick Engar, Assistant Chief Judge. Without their efforts updating Competition Handbook and Judges Guide would not have been possible. We are confident that this new version for 2024 will help IPMS modelers improve their results whether they plan to compete in Madison in July 2024 or simply want to build better models for their own enjoyment.

This Handbook, along with all the contest rules and categories, will be updated annually. If you have any suggestions or changes, please send an email to ipmsusa2ndvp@ipmsusa.org

Scott Hackney
IPMS/USA 2^nd Vice President